The toucan landed just a few beak lengths away from our plates
of chicken stew and fried plantains. Both he, a colorful mélange
of yellow, green and black, as well as the traditional lunch at
the farmhouse on the banks of the Rio Sarapiqui, charmed us. Such
surprises popped up often on our Austin-Lehman Adventures Costa
Rican family trip.
While most of the group biked the challenging gravel and dirt
roads ringing the Arenal Volcano, we asked for an option that
would get us close to wildlife. Austin-Lehman delivered the Arenal
Hanging Bridges eco-walk, a mild hike through the heart of a rainforest.
Crossing the fixed and suspended cable bridges, some as high
as 150-feet, put us in the treetops, the better to see the troops
of howler monkeys scampering branch to branch. The shady trails
took us by ficus trees as thick as VW Beetles, past hanging vines,
ferns, and philodendron plants as big as elephant ears. We saw
a poisonous snake curled on a log, leaf-cutter ants march with
military precision, carrying bits of broken green on their backs
and we watched a beak-heavy toucan careen onto a tree branch.
Afterwards, another surprise: a soothing soak at a lushly landscaped
private hot springs whose bubbling, mineral rich waters cascaded
into pools, perfect for massaging the cyclists’ aching muscles.
Our next destination, Tortuguero, a pastiche of canals originally
used by loggers, but now part of a 51,000-acre national park reachable
only by small boat or plane. At the edge of the refuge, Tortuga
Lodge, our overnight base, rises mirage-like near the confluence
of the San Juan River and the Caribbean. Daytime trips floated
us past stands of bamboo, mango and spiny cedar trees. We spotted
boat-billed egrets, tiger herons, and two-toed sloths. Our guide
maneuvered us close enough to a Panama tree to reveal that the
row of black bumps was really a line of long-nosed bats and that
the gnarly, half-submerged log near the bank was actually a crocodile
snout.
Tortuguero, “turtle catcher” in Spanish, gains fame
as the site of the 14-mile dark sand beach where hundreds of Atlantic
Green sea turtles lumber ashore from June through October to lay
their eggs. On a windy night with a sliver of moon, we stood shoreside,
listening to the pounding surf. When the guide first pointed out
a turtle, since our eyes were not yet adjusted to the dark, we
discerned only a dark shadow, but heard her labored breathe and
the scratchy sound of her flippers as she pulled herself to a
spot above high tide level. Satisfied with her site, she painstakingly
whipped the sand out from under her with her back flippers, then
dropped scores of eggs before methodically tossing the dirt back
into the nest with her front flippers. Then she slowly lumbered
down the beach, disappearing into the waves, and leaving us amazed.
Our final adventure was an 18-mile rafting trip on the swift-moving
Pacuare River , designated one of the top ten whitewater runs
in the world for its combination of easy access, cascading rapids
and wilderness scenery. We paddled past tall ceiba trees, swirled
by waterfalls and boulders, and in the calm of a canyon, floated
on our backs, grateful for the wonders of Costa Rica.